Sustainable Happiness, Bhutan Development Project
Stories from Bhutan’s Site Visits (3)
Day 4: Visit to Zhemgang Dzongkhag
Visit to Zhemgang Dzongkhag
Zhemgang Dzongkhag consists of eight gewogs and forty chiwogs, with a population of over 17,000. The area comprises over 94% forest, housing the abundant flora and fauna of the Royal Manas National Park. Being an area with many impoverished residents, Sunim decided to conduct the survey himself. Today, they visited four of the eight gewogs in the southern area. Rinchen Samdrup, the Chief Planning Officer of the Bhutanese Cabinet, and Norbu Jamtsho, the operational planning officer of Zhemgang Dzongkhag, joined the JTS survey team in Thimphu.
△ Young villagers exchanging greetings with Sunim
Upon arrival, the JTS team immediately toured the farm and engaged in conversations with the youth. The youth were planning to produce coffee, so they focused on cultivating coffee seedlings. Inside the greenhouse, there were seedlings that had been grown for about a year and also newly sprouted ones. The seedlings were of the Arabica variety. They explained that after planting the coffee seeds and sprouting, they would transfer them into small pots to grow as seedlings before planting them in the ground. It was intriguing to learn about growing coffee trees in cold climates like Bhutan. The Panbang area is near the border with India, thus its tropical climate makes it a viable place for coffee trees to thrive.
△ Pomnyun Sunim and the JTS survey team inquiring about cultivating coffee tree seedlings
△ The coffee tree seedlings being cultivated by two young men
The youth’s farm was quite large. They were operating a poultry farm, raising 600 chickens, and also producing eggs. There were ponds for fish farming, but since the land was mostly sand, the water was constantly draining away.
△ 두 청년이 운영하고 있는 양계장The poultry farm operated by two young men
△ The pond for fish farming operated by two young men
On the spacious grounds, there were thousands of pineapple plants. About half of them appeared as if their tops had been removed. When asked about it, it was explained that the wildlife, such as wild boars from the nearby Manas National Park, had come down and devoured around 2,000 pineapples. As in Trongsa, they had put up fences to prevent wildlife damage to crops, but they didn’t seem very effective, which caused a lot of concern.
△ Pomnyun Sunim and the JTS survey team exploring the vast field with thousands of pineapple plants
Pomnyun Sunim and the JTS survey team thoroughly surveyed every corner of the grounds for about an hour. Pomnyun Sunim praised the youth.
“These days, many young people are eager to leave for cities, but you’ve made a wise choice. You’ve built a farm on the flatlands near the river. This place is close to the border with India. Right now, wealthy people in India are buying cars and houses, but in about ten years, they will surely seek high-quality food. At that time, you’ll be able to export organically grown crops to India at high prices. Look to the future and operate well.”
The youth’s eyes sparkled as they listened to Sunim’s words. Then, they clasped Sunim’s hands tightly, expressing their gratitude.
△ Pomnyun Sunim and the JTS survey team moving to the next location while conversing with the Zhemgang officials
While moving to the next location, Pomnyun Sunim asked the Zhemgang official.
“By the way, how did the youth manage to obtain such a prime piece of flat land?”
“In Zhemgang, there’s plenty of vacant land available. Although it involves several procedures, there should be plenty of land suitable for cultivation after being cleared for agricultural use.”
Pomnyun Sunim and the JTS survey team then proceeded to the Ribati Chiwog in the same gewog. Along the way, they visited a poor household.
△ Pomnyun Sunim and the JTS survey team stopping by to take a look around the house on their way
△ The interior of the household
In this household, there was a woman who had lost her husband and was living in her husband’s family’s house. Upon observing the interior of the house, it appeared more spacious and tidier than one might expect. The government’s electricity supply was available despite the household’s dire condition. In the kitchen, there were three stones arranged in a tripod on the earthen floor, where she was cooking over an open flame. The JTS team briefly looked around the house with the purpose of examining as many households as possible to assess the overall situation.
△ Pomnyun Sunim and the JTS team surveying the kitchen inside the household
△ Pomnyun Sunim conversing with the villagers at the Ribati Chiwog Clinic
The JTS team arrived at the clinic of the Ribati Chiwog. They entered the clinic with the villagers and took their seats. The situation was much more dire than in Trongsa. The Ribati Chiwog clinic did not even have assistant health workers. The villagers took turns operating the clinic. It operated with periodic visits from health workers who provided medical care once a month. In cases of urgent or serious illness, they would go to the gewog’s clinic or be transferred to the comprehensive hospital in Zhemgang.
Sunim began a conversation with the residents of the Ribati Chiwog.
“Is agriculture the primary focus here at the Ribati Chiwog?”
“Yes.”
△ The villagers conversing with Ven. Pomnyun Sunim.
“Do you use tractors when plowing the fields?”
“We plow with oxen.”
“Then, those who have oxen, please raise your hands.”
About two people raised their hands.
“Now, those who don’t have oxen, please raise your hands.”
Most of the people raised their hands.
“In that case, we’ll give you calves. If you raise them well, when the mother cow gives birth, you can keep the calf, and return the mother. How does that sound? Would that be possible?”
The villagers showed unexpected interest and focused on Sunim’s proposal.
“What’s the most challenging aspect of farming for you?”
An elderly grandfather spoke up.
“Water is the problem. In fact, there’s a shortage of drinking water. The water source has dried up, so we need to find another source.”
Water was directly impacting the villagers’ lives.
“There’s a shortage of drinking water too?”
Sunim spent a considerable amount of time discussing with the villagers how to address the water problem in the area. They explored whether there was a suitable water source, whether the village residents could build a canal with support for materials and funds, and if there were any other ideas for a water supply. As the conversation unfolded, an hour and a half quickly passed. They needed to conclude the meeting as a long stay at one place would make it difficult to visit other places later on.
“Let’s wrap up the water discussion for now. Are there any households in the Ribati Chiwog that are facing hardships?”
A man then guided the JTS survey team to his own house.
△ Pomnyun Sunim and the JTS survey team moving to the house guided by residents
“This house was built for me by the villagers a few years ago after they pooled their money together.”
Upon entering, they found themselves in a hall-like space where three daughters, one son, a grandmother, and a grandfather were all living together.
“As the children are soon to reach adolescence, they should each have their own rooms. Living in such close quarters, even with family, isn’t ideal for anyone.”
The JTS team then left the house and proceeded to the Ribati Chiwog’s temple. Inside the temple, there were no statues, only an altar. The villagers gather here to discuss important matters and work together. It serves as a kind of community center. Listening to the stories of the Ribati Chiwog’s residents, it was evidence that there was a strong sense of community among the villagers.
△ The view of Ribati Chiwog’s temple
The JTS team proceeded to visit the school next. The total number of students was only seven, so the school was not large. They provided education from kindergarten to elementary school levels, and the interior facilities were not significantly different from other schools.
△ Pomnyun Sunim and the JTS Survey Team Touring the School
The JTS team concluded their visit to Ribati and moved on to the Chag-Ngar-Zam Chiwog in Phangkhar Gewog. They crossed a very large suspension bridge and arrived at the weaving center. Several village women were weaving fabric there.
△ Pomnyun Sunim and the JTS survey team crossing a large suspension bridge
△ The village residents weaving fabric at the weaving center
The villagers prepared bananas, oranges, eggs, baked goods, and other homemade food for the visitors who traveled from afar.
“What are the challenges in this village?”
“It’s not easy to find water.”
“Even though the river flows below, is it still difficult to find water?”
△ Pomnyun Sunim conversing with the village residents
“The river is too far away to easily bring the water up. The existing water source has dried up.”
“What do you mainly produce?”
“Oranges and cardamom are our main products.” The oranges are also large and thick-skinned. They tasted very good.
“These are the best oranges I’ve ever had, even compared to those I’ve had in India or Bhutan. Is it just this year, or are they usually this good on average?”
“This year’s harvest is relatively good, but the taste isn’t significantly different from usual.”
“Since the Indian border is right nearby, exporting them would indeed be a good option. Oranges are considered a luxury food in India and are consumed in large quantities. Even at our Sujata Academy, we distribute oranges to the children at least once a week. However, the ones available are often more expensive, with thicker skins and less flavor. If we could expand our orange farms, it would be great to collaborate with the villagers.”
“Thank you, Sunim.”
△ The officials listening to Pomnyun Sunim
Upon hearing Pomnyun Sunim’s advice, which was imbued with his experience in overseas ventures, the villagers and accompanying officials seemed revitalized with enthusiasm. The JTS team then headed to their next destination, the Lingmapong Chiwog in Goshing Gewog. They first visited the temple to pay their respects, then toured the school, dairy processing center, and health clinic in that order. The school grounds were spacious, with a large playground.
“From what we’ve seen so far, it seems that Bhutan provides good support for education.”
△ The view of Lingmapong Chiwog
At the dairy processing plant, they found various dairy products being made, including cheese, butter, and yogurt. Households with one or two cows each gathered to extract milk. With initial financial support from the government, they have operated the dairy processing plant. The yogurt tasted very simple and delicious.
△ The view of the dairy processing plant
△ The JTS survey team conversing with the village residents
“Are these products mainly consumed within Bhutan?”
“Yes, that’s correct.”
“What are the challenges?”
“The processing facilities are outdated. As demand for dairy products increases, there’s a need for facility expansion. However, the government hasn’t provided support for this.”
“But that’s a misconception. If you hadn’t received government support initially, you wouldn’t have been able to start the business in the first place. The government supports you in the beginning so that you can start, but afterward, it’s up to you to operate and manage it. How long will you keep asking the government to do things for you? It’s not about the government not doing its job; it’s about you not being self-reliant.”
Pomnyun Sunim’s sharp admonition resonated deeply with the villagers, who listened attentively and agreed. The JTS team encouraged the residents to participate in fostering sustainable community development. Helping those who have received assistance to become helpers themselves is the ultimate goal of JTS’s relief activities.
“Is there anything else you need?”
“It’s not easy to supply water.”
“The water problem isn’t unique to this place. We need to discuss it comprehensively with the government.”
The day was growing dark. The villagers wanted to give cheese and butter as gifts to the JTS team, but the team insisted on paying for them.
On their way back, the JTS team stopped by the health clinic operated by Goshing Gewog and visited the most challenged household in the gewog.
△ Pomnyun Sunim and the JTS survey team touring the clinic operated at Gosing Gewog
It was a house made by weaving bamboo and simply covered with a roof, yet the interior was very tidy. There were foundation stones laid in front of the house, and someone was cleaning the grounds. The villagers said they were collectively raising funds to build a house for a woman. After deciding to provide housing support by putting a roof over their heads, the JTS team moved on to their accommodations.
△ A house surrounded by bamboo walls with only a roof on top
On the way, the JTS team toured the flatlands close to the water to see if there was any suitable land for cultivation.
△ The landscape of a flat area near the water
△ Pomnyun Sunim and the JTS survey team observing the landscape
The JTS team arrived at their accommodations at 6:30 in the evening. After dinner, the team held a meeting to summarize the findings from their visits so far.
△ Pomnyun Sunim and the JTS survey team conducting a meeting
Six things needed for residents’ lives to become happier
“I will share my impressions from today. To make residents’ lives a bit happier, six things seem necessary.
First, improvement in living standards such as access to necessities. Second, the presence of production facilities for sustainable livelihoods. Third, improvements in education. Fourth, enhancements in healthcare facilities. Fifth, improvements in infrastructure such as water, electricity, sewage, and roads. Sixth, the preservation of traditional culture. There is one more thing, environmental issues. However, upon inspection, it seemed that environmental issues were already well addressed, so I skipped it.”
Yesterday and today, after visiting Trongsa and Zhemgang, it seems that the preservation of tradition in rural areas is being well-maintained. The health clinics seem to meet at least the minimum standards. However, there are no plans yet for support towards larger hospitals for treating and managing serious illnesses. Most of the clinics at each Dzongkhag level had delivery rooms and patient wards. Particularly in places like Trongsa, where the temperature is low, heating systems seemed necessary for delivery rooms and patient wards. Regarding schools, from what I have seen so far, basic facilities were generally well-equipped. There were some in poor condition. Considering they were soon to be closed, however, there is a debate about whether repairs should be made.
I couldn’t properly assess production facilities as I didn’t see them well. If there is land by the riverbank like in Paro, we could set up an irrigation system. However, there was hardly any land by the riverbank here. While I initially thought agricultural water was the problem, the bigger issue seems to be drinking water. Therefore, I believe figuring out how to supply drinking water is a major challenge.
I thought that the problem of production could be solved by building an irrigation system, constructing crop storage warehouses, opening agricultural roads, and developing profitable crops. However, upon inspection, it appears that the issues with roads and irrigation are not major problems.
Instead, it appears that determining how to build crop storage warehouses and cultivating and distributing profitable crops that can generate income by region are crucial aspects of solving the production problem. The identified profitable crops from the surveys so far are green tea from Trongsa’s Samcholing Chiwog, cardamom, and oranges from the Panbang area in Zhemgang. These three appear promising. Looking at the young farmers’ farms today, if their experiments succeed, coffee could also become a profitable product.
In Korea, I’ve considered apples as a profitable crop. I thought about cultivating Korean high-quality apple trees in high-altitude areas like Trongsa and exporting them to India. Apples from India or Bhutan are small and lack texture and taste. Occasionally, there are good-quality apples from India, but they are all imported from China.
In the livestock sector, if you want to raise chickens in large quantities, you need to provide feed to them. However, providing chicken feed raises the unit price, making it uncompetitive. Instead, I think it might be better for each household to raise 10 chickens individually and collect eggs to sell.
Dairy products like cow’s milk, cheese, and butter would be good for people’s health. However, I’m not sure if it would be profitable if the price is low but the quality is good. So, this aspect also needs to be carefully considered. As for the production facilities, you haven’t shown us that many, so it’s still difficult to judge.
△ A Bhutanese government official participating in the meeting
The most important thing is improving living conditions. First is housing. According to conversations with residents, those in the bottom 10% either lack proper housing or live in very poor conditions. Therefore, my opinion is that their housing needs to be improved. For those in the bottom 10%, their living conditions should be upgraded to at least the level of those just above them. Improving it beyond that might lead to dissatisfaction among those in the higher bracket.
Second, kitchen improvement is necessary. Gas-powered stoves are rare here, and most people cook using wood, which requires facilities that prevent smoke inhalation. If keeping the cooking area inside the house due to cold weather is unavoidable, like in places near the Zhemgang River where it’s less cold, it’s better to have the cooking area outside. Also, separate the kitchen to use heat effectively and install chimneys and ventilation systems for better living conditions. A cooking platform should be at the right height to avoid bending over while cooking, and there should be a drainage system to allow water to drain.
Third, it appears that poor people lack mattresses and blankets.
I haven’t fully assessed whether there are people experiencing food shortages or malnutrition, or if there are people lacking proper clothing. Also, I haven’t assessed if farming is being done effectively. For example, how many farming tools like shovels, hoes, and rakes does each household have, or if there are basic tools like hammers, screwdrivers, and wrenches for repairing houses or other items. Some basic tools should be available. Larger equipment or tools that are not frequently used can be kept in the village hall for communal use, where people can borrow and share them as needed. For instance, sharing one or two electric nail guns or a small tractor for plowing among the villagers would be beneficial.
If we add a few pieces of equipment and use them efficiently, living without excessive mechanization wouldn’t be a problem in rural areas the size of chiwogs. We don’t need to intervene in people’s lives to make them live better. That’s something individuals should take care of on their own.
△ A Bhutanese government official participating in the meeting
We also need special programs to attract young people to sustainable development projects who are not native to the area. For example, young people who come to farm in this area should be provided with vacant land or supported with money-making crop varieties to facilitate initial infrastructure development. Additionally, it’s important to instill meaning in young people about living in a sustainable development model.
△ Pomnyun Sunim and the JTS survey team in a meeting.
After conducting a field survey for three days, Ven. Pomnyun Sunim shared his thoughts with the survey team. It was decided to focus on production-related matters and the living facilities of the residents rather than visiting schools or health clinics tomorrow.
