The Second Bhutan Exploration – Day 4

Nimshong, Rangdelbi

It’s the 4th day of the Bhutan trip on March 28, 2024. Following the visit to Nimshong Chiwog the previous day, the JTS survey team checked the issues of wildlife damage and agricultural water supply, and then moved on to Rangdelbi Chiwog.

They briefly stopped by the Kolpu Gewogoffice to express gratitude to the public officials, gave them gifts such as socks, toothbrushes, and books, and took a group photo together.

△ The JTS team and the staff of the Kolpu Gewog office

Venerable Pomnyun also gave a gift to the driver.

“Socks should be changed regularly, so I’m giving these as a gift.”

After driving for an hour, we arrived at Nimshong Chiwog at 8 AM and toured the farm. In the distance, we could see terraced rice fields down the mountain.

△ Terraced rice fields visible from below the mountain

“If you go down for about 30 minutes, you’ll reach the farm.”

They followed the path down to the farm. Even though Venerable Pomnyun had heart issues, he was confident on the downhill walk.

△ The JTS team walking down the path

“It’s fine on the downhill.”

Venerable Pomnyun led the way, walking down lightly. For those with knee issues, the elderly, and those wearing slippery shoes, he made walking sticks to assist them.

△ Venerable Pomnyun making walking sticks

As the team descended along the narrow path, the areas overgrown with grass turned out to be terraced rice fields. They mentioned that due to a lack of water, farming was not going well.

△ The JTS field team exploring the irrigation canals

Even in the fields deep in the mountains, there were concrete irrigation channels. The steep slopes made it difficult to even descend, and it seemed like farming in such a remote area was no easy task.

When they came across a large farming area, Venerable Pomnyun engaged in conversation with the Bhutanese government officials and Chokbas of Nimshong Chiwog. He first asked whether they thought the young people would continue farming in such a harsh land.

△ The JTS team and Bhutanese government officials engaging in conversation

“It’s not the irrigation channels that are the problem; even if farming is done here, in 10 years, the land will likely be left fallow again. The young people these days all move to the cities, so when the elderly who are farming now grow old, there won’t be any young people left in the village. Will they still be able to continue farming?”

“I think we’ll continue farming for the next 50 years. Every family has five or six children, but they are so poor that it’s difficult to send them to school. So, for the time being, they won’t leave the village. Unlike people from other Chiwogs, the people here own very little land.”

Venerable Pomnyun asked another question.

“There is a lot of uncultivated land across from here in Nabji Chiwog. Rather than working on this steep land, wouldn’t it be better to encourage people to farm that land? If there are not enough workers, it seems more effective to send the people from this village to Nabji Chiwog to farm.”

“Even now, one or two families are farming in other villages. As you mentioned, the government does have a role to play. However, the residents are uneasy about farming in other villages because, officially, the land is not theirs. In the long run, there is an element of instability.”

“Okay. On an individual level, that definitely makes sense. However, from the government’s perspective, it would be much more efficient to invest in land that is easier for farming, so please consider that. If JTS provides the materials, do the villagers have the will to create the irrigation channels from Nabji Chiwog to here and farm themselves?”

“The villagers do have the will. This is because they often come to us, complaining that they can’t farm due to the lack of water. As you mentioned, some people have already gone to other villages to farm. But these are the ones who stayed because they still want to farm here.”

“Anyway, the older generation is willing to farm, but there is a concern that the younger generation will move to the cities. Even if they don’t attend school, as the economy develops, road construction or manual labor will offer better pay, so they are less inclined to farm.”

“You’re right, but here, there’s nothing available, so the young people are likely to leave for the cities. However, if there is enough food and income here, they wouldn’t need to leave.”

△ The JTS team and Bhutanese government officials continuing their conversation

“Okay! If the villagers want it, JTS will provide support. Living in such a beautiful natural environment is far better than moving to the city. I want the young people to continue living here. However, the young people don’t understand its value, so they need to leave for the city to realize it. The likelihood is that, when they grow older and get tired, they will return. Since the villagers want it, JTS is willing to support, but please investigate whether it’s technically feasible to build an irrigation system here and whether it’s economically worth investing in from the perspective of the government.”

“Yes, we will do that.”

After the conversation, we made our way back down the mountain. Along the way, there were fields of rice and cardamom scattered throughout the slopes. The descent was steep as well.

△ The JTS team descending down the mountain.

“It’s difficult enough to come down without carrying anything; just imagine how hard it would be with a load on your back?”

After touring the farm, two hours had passed.

Venerable Pomnyun once again asked the heads of Kolpu Gewog and Nimshong Chiwog, “If the villagers want it, JTS will support the improvement of the irrigation system, so please look into it carefully.”

△ Venerable Pomnyun presenting a gift to a Bhutanese official

After three days of field visits, the planning officer from Trongsa and the government officials returned to their office. Venerable Pomnyun, with gratitude, presented them with gifts before heading to the next destination, Rangdelbi Chiwog.

As they drove, Venerable Pomnyun spoke to the JTS team.

“The problem arises because of private property. In Najsi Chiwog, there is a lot of flat land, so rice farming can be done, while in Nimshong Chiwog, there is more mountainous land, so they grow corn. If they share, it should be fine. But because they keep distinguishing between ‘yours’ and ‘mine,’ everyone ends up having to farm separately. On the other hand, if we don’t distinguish between ‘yours’ and ‘mine,’ there’s a risk that people won’t farm efficiently.”

At noon, they set off for Rangdelbi Chiwog. It took 3 hours and 30 minutes by car.

△ The view on the way to Rangdelbi Chiwog

After the past three days of field visits, they passed through Trongsa Dzongkhag and were now moving onto the Gemgang Dzongkhag.

△ The road to Gemgang Dzongkhag and Langdalbi Chiwog

They arrived at Rangdelbi Chiwog in Gemgang Dzongkhag at 3:30 PM. First, they visited the poorest house in the village. It was the same house that Venerable Pomnyun had visited during the field trip in February.

△ The JTS team visiting the poorest house

They carefully examined whether the house was a suitable candidate for repairs as a sample to improve the living environment. After touring the interior of the house, Venerable Pomnyun shared his thoughts with the JTS team on how the house could be improved.

△ The interior of the house.

“This is where the grandmother sleeps.”

“She sleeps here?”

Everyone was shocked to see the grandmother lying on a broken wooden board.

△ The JTS team inspecting the interior of the house

“There is only one room, and the parents are living with them, so we need to create separate spaces,” Venerable Pomnyun explained.

The JTS team listened to his explanation and came up with various ideas for improvement.

△ The JTS field team brainstorming solutions

“How about placing a wardrobe in the middle to separate the two households?”

Venerable Pomnyun emphasized that the kitchen, where women cook, should be the first area to improve.

“Let’s add shelves here to put the rice cooker and dishes, and build storage cabinets underneath for cooking utensils. It would be good to add a stove with proper ventilation for the smoke to escape. Since the kitchen has a dirt floor, it would be great to replace it with a concrete floor.”

△ The kitchen inside the house

They stepped outside and examined the outdoor water supply. A single faucet was being shared by two households.

△ Venerable Pomnyun inspecting the water supply

“Let’s install three faucets: one to keep as it is, one connected to this house for their use, and one connected to the other house for their use.”
Venerable Pomnyun also examined the traditional toilet and added his thoughts.

△ Venerable Pomnyun inspecting the toilet

“It would be good to replace the toilet floor with concrete, and adding a faucet inside the toilet would also be helpful,” Venerable Pomnyun suggested.

The laundry was being hung on a bamboo fence, jukdam, set up around the house.

△ Venerable Pomnyun inspecting the laundry fence

“It would be good to build eaves to prevent rain from getting in, and also install a drying rack under the eaves so that laundry can be properly hung,” Venerable Pomnyun suggested.

After walking around the house, he emphasized to the Bhutanese government officials and the JTS team the importance of these improvements.

△ Venerable Pomnyun discussing with the JTS team and Bhutanese government officials

“We shouldn’t repair the house based on our own ideas. Everything must be decided after consulting with the people who live in this house. We need to ask whether to install a water supply inside the house, whether to put a water supply in the bathroom as well, whether to extend the eaves, whether to make the floor concrete, where the grandmother will sleep, and where to place the stove. We need to ask them all. “What do you want?” “We’re thinking of doing it this way, what do you think?” We must ask about each thing and get the consent of the people living in this house.”

“Yes, I understand.”

“Do you think we can make this house a sample in a week? Is there enough time?”

“As long as the plan is made, the repair can be done quickly.”

After finishing the site visit, they moved again and arrived at their accommodations around 4:30 PM, where they unpacked their belongings.

△ The JTS team heading to their accommodations

Starting today, the place where the team will be staying is an old house previously owned by the person in charge of Randelbi Chiwog. Venerable Pomnyun and the JTS team decided to live in this house just like the residents. 

Outside, there was an outdoor water faucet and a restroom. After looking at the restroom, Venerable Pomnyun smiled and said, “The restroom is quite spacious, so we can fill a basin with water and wash in the restroom.”

After moving all the luggage, Venerable Pomnyun built a fire pit to cook. Just like the villagers, he stacked three large stones and tried lighting a fire.

△ Venerable Pomnyun building a fire pit and lighting the fire

△ A fire pit made using three large stones

From 5:30 PM, there was a meeting with Bhutanese government officials. First, Venerable Pomnyun discussed the issues of installing a fence at the farm in Nimshong Chiwog, which was visited today, and how to supply agricultural water.”

△ JTS team and Bhutan government cabinet officials in a meeting

“The farm in Nimshong Chiwog doesn’t have any roads around it, so it seems difficult to transport the produce, and the steep slopes make it hard to set up a fence. While it’s good in terms of food self-sufficiency, farming there looks really challenging, which is worrying. However, if the residents want it and if approval is granted by the Dzongkhag, we will support it.”

Next, they discussed how to remodel the poor house they saw in Rangdelbi Chiwog. Various ideas and opinions were shared about the stove, flue, floor, eaves, and other aspects to create a sample living environment. Venerable Pomnyun also asked the government officials a question.

‘When improving the living environment, we need to have a conversation with the people living in the house to determine how much to renovate. Why was the kitchen built without a flue to vent smoke outside, even though they use fire inside the house? It’s bad for their lung health—what was the reason for this?'”

The planning officer from Gemgang responded.

△ The planning officer responding

“It’s not that people want it this way; it’s just how they’ve been living.”

“We will simply install a stove in the house. We’ll install a stove where you can burn wood, hang a pot above it, and let the smoke escape outside. We’ll make a sample, and it would be great if you could take a look and give us your feedback on whether it’s okay.”

“As more houses get electricity, some people are starting to use electric rice cookers, but people still say that cooking rice over a fire tastes better.”

“That’s right. It’s the same in Korea. To really cook rice well, you need to use fire. Also, poor people need stoves because electricity bills can be high. This area also has a lot of wood. Should the floor be made of concrete, and then a thin carpet placed on top, or would it be better to use wood?”

The engineer from Gemgang replied.

△ The JTS team and Bhutan government officials in a meeting

“The sleeping area should have stones laid down first, with wood on top to keep it warm. Concrete will let the cold seep through. For the kitchen, concrete is better because it’s easier to clean and maintain.”

After exchanging ideas and suggestions, Venerable Pomnyun summarized the direction for the remodeling:

“If the method we tried in the sample works well, we will support the repair of all the homes in the bottom 20 percent. The kitchens should be prioritized for repair.”

After hearing Venerable Pomnyun’s words, Linchen, from the Cabinet Secretariat, made a suggestion.

△ Conversation between Bhutan government officials and the JTS team

“We want to focus on sustainable development. So, instead of importing cement from abroad, it would be good to use local materials.” 

“Sure, let’s do that. We can mix soil and straw, and then add a small amount of cement.” 

“There is cement produced in Bhutan. We can use that.”

△ JTS team and Bhutan government cabinet officials discussing materials

“We will not use imported goods whenever possible. This is because transporting them also uses carbon, so let’s use materials that can be sourced from the village.”

Finally, Venerable Pomnyun spoke about tomorrow’s schedule.

“Then, tomorrow, let’s visit Komshar Chiwog. Can everyone depart at 6 AM?”

Linchen confidently replied,

“You have trained me well, so it’s no problem now.”

The meeting ended at 7 PM. After a simple dinner, the long day came to a close.

* This text was written and edited based on an article provided by the Monk’s Day Team