The Second Bhutan Exploration – Day 5

Komshar, Phulavi, Rangdelbi Chiwogs

On March 29, 2024, the fifth day of the Bhutan trip, the JTS team departed for Komshar village at 6 AM. Yesterday, it took a long time to travel to Rangdelbi Chiwog due to the unpaved road, and the team had traveled by minivan. To shorten the travel time today, Venerable Pomnyun suggested they avoid taking the minivan and instead sit in the back of the truck that the government officials had come in. Since not everyone could sit in the front seats, a few would have to ride in the back of the truck. When Venerable Pomnyun tried to get into the back, the Bhutanese officials tried to stop him.

“That’s okay. It’s much better than walking.”

△ JTS team riding in the back of the truck

△ The road to Komshar village

As Venerable Pomnyun and activists sat in the back of the truck, the vehicle set off. They breathed in the fresh morning air, fully immersing themselves in nature.

“Wow, look at that view. It’s like a landscape painting. It’s really beautiful.”

“This is truly an experience you couldn’t buy with money.”

After riding the bumpy truck for an hour and forty minutes, they finally arrived at Komshar Chiwog. Despite the rough ride, taking the truck reduced the travel time by half.

△ View of Komshar Chiwog

The head of Bardo Gewog (Gep), which includes Komshar Chiwog and Pullabi Chiwog, the head of the Chiwog (Chokba), and the planning officer of the Gemgang Dzongkhag, which oversees Bardo Gewog, also joined the site visit.

△ Komshar Elementary School

First, they went to Komshar Elementary School. Since the boarding students were having breakfast, they went to the dining hall to take a look.

△ Children eating their meal

△ Children eating their meal

The children were eating fried rice with chili peppers. Venerable Pomnyun approached the children, greeted them, and asked, “Can I eat too?” 

The child could not answer and began to cry softly.

△ Children smiling

Venerable Pomnyun gently patted the child and left the dining hall. The children began washing the dishes by themselves and hurried off to prepare for their school lessons.

△ Children playing with their friends

△ Children playing with their friends

Venerable Pomnyun asked the principal what difficulties they were facing. The principal mentioned that the desks and chairs were very old, there were not enough tables and chairs in the dining hall, and the toilets were inconvenient.

△ Old desks

△ JTS team examining old chairs

Venerable Pomnyun toured the classrooms with them. Overall, the condition was fine, but the desks and chairs in the 6th-grade classroom were too old and seemed to need replacing. Some of the tables in the cafeteria were also worn out and appeared to be insufficient.

△ Venerable Pomnyun touring the classroom

When they went to the bathroom, there was a strong smell. The bathroom floor was also cracked in places.

△ Interior of the bathroom

“It seems like the bathroom was built incorrectly. It might be necessary to bring in an expert to investigate.”

After leaving the school, we toured the production facility where dairy products are processed. Many people in the village raise dairy cows.

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△ Refrigerator filled with dairy products

△ Venerable Pomnyun tasting dairy products

They collect milk from 43 households to make yogurt, butter, and cheese, most of which are supplied to the school. They mentioned that the first cow was provided by the government without any conditions. After finishing the conversation, the JTS team got into the car and headed to where the village residents were gathered. Venerable Pomnyun sat near the residents and started a conversation.

△ Venerable Pomnyun conversing with the villagers

“I just visited the dairy production facility. Are there people who raise dairy cows at home?” 

Several people raised their hands.

△ Village residents raising their hands

“Do you buy feed for them, or do you feed them with byproducts from agricultural production?” 

“We take the cows around and let them graze.” 

“What is the most inconvenient or necessary thing in your daily life?” 

When asked about their difficulties, the village residents answered actively.

△ Village residents discussing their difficulties

“We need cows that produce more milk.”

“We are short of agricultural water. It’s necessary to repair the irrigation system.”

△ Village residents talking about their difficulties

“We need to build a fence around the fields to increase the production of cardamom so we can send our children to school.” 

“The health center facilities need to be improved.” 

“The road to the rice fields needs to be widened. The current road is too narrow for farm equipment to pass through.” 

Amid the complaints from various residents, a woman stood up to speak on behalf of all the women.

△ A village resident speaking on behalf of all the women

“There are many problems with the kitchen. There is electricity, but there is no electric rice cooker. There are no kitchen counters, so I always have to bend down to cook, which hurts my back. It would be nice if we could work standing up.”

After listening to the various requests from the residents, Venerable Pomnyun spoke.

“Do you all think that if you just had money, everything would be solved?”
“Of course!”

△ The village residents listening attentively to Venerable Pomnyun’s words

“I’ll tell you a story from my childhood. When I started elementary school, it was 1960. At that time, South Korea’s GDP per capita was $100. There were many people who couldn’t afford food. People walked 10 kilometers without hesitation. Even children walked 4 kilometers to go to school. Some children didn’t even have shoes. Sixty-five years have passed since then. Now, South Korea’s GDP per capita is $35,000. The GDP per capita has increased by 350 times. So, there shouldn’t be any problems now, right? However, young people in Korea are struggling and saying they can’t bear it. The number of suicides is the highest in the world. Also, young people are not getting married. Even if they do get married, they are not having children. The first reason is that housing is too expensive, so it’s hard to find a home. The second reason is that education costs are too high.”

“Do you think money will make you happy?

From a material perspective, the wealth has increased by 350 times, but people are saying they are more stressed than before. You might think, ‘If Bhutan’s economy improves like Korea’s, everything will be solved,’ but that’s not true. If you visit Korea, it might look like paradise. However, the people living there are screaming as if they are living in hell. Do you want to become like that?”

△ Venerable Pomnyun speaking to the village residents

“Currently, in South Korea, many factories have been built, and the air is very polluted. The water is contaminated, so we can’t drink tap water. We have to buy water with money. Yet, the people in Korea still think that if they earn more money, their problems will be solved. Do you want to end up like that, always chasing after ‘money, money, money’?”

“Right now, many young people in Bhutan want to go to Australia, the United States, South Korea, and Japan. As time passes, only the elderly will be left in the countryside. The rural village where I grew up had a large population 65 years ago, but now it’s much smaller. There were 2,000 elementary school students, but now there are only 15. I am 71 years old this year, and I am the youngest person in my village. All the young people have moved to the cities. Bhutan is also changing in this direction. The young people all want to leave for Thimphu or foreign countries. Is this a sign that Bhutan is doing well? Will better roads solve these problems? Will building better houses solve these problems? Even if your children go to Australia, make a lot of money, and send it back, you might be able to build a big house, but you will hardly ever see their faces before you die.”

“The reason I came to Bhutan”

I was born and grew up in a place that developed quickly. However, I don’t think such rapid development is a good thing. That’s why I came here. You can only truly understand how good Bhutan is with its clean air and water once you leave Bhutan. Of course, the living environment shouldn’t be too uncomfortable. So, the living environment must be improved. The irrigation systems necessary for farming need to be improved. But if we always pursue only the best things, it will never end. Right now, you might think that an electric rice cooker would be great, but once you get an electric rice cooker, you’ll think a washing machine would be nice. When you get a washing machine, you’ll want a refrigerator. Once you have a washing machine and a refrigerator, the living space in your house feels smaller. So, you’ll need a bigger house. Then, you’ll use more water, and the village’s water supply will be insufficient. If there is a water shortage, you’ll need to find a new water source and connect more irrigation systems. Over time, you will need a bed, and a car. Will this keep going? When will it stop? Is living like this, constantly struggling, truly living well?

“Still, if you offer support, I will gladly accept it.” (Laughs)

△ The residents smiling as they talk

The residents smiled and talked. Finally, Venerable Pomnyun shared why he came to Bhutan.

△ Venerable Pomnyun talking with the villagers, smiling

“The reason why climate change is happening, and why the world is facing difficulties, is because desires never stop growing. The reason I came here is not to buy you the things you want, but to help those who are struggling with basic living. Secondly, I came to tell you that constantly pursuing ‘money, money, money’ is not a good thing.”

Among the villagers, many people had problems with their eyes, ears, and teeth. Venerable Pomnyun checked how many people had poor eyesight, who had hearing problems, and how many people were missing teeth. He made a promise to the villagers.

△ A villager having a conversation with Venerable Pomnyun

“Your requested items will be discussed with the Bhutan government officials, and we will try to resolve them one by one.”

After the conversation, the team visited the poorest house in the Komshar Chiwog and examined the inside of the house. Ten family members lived there, and they owned 4 acres of land. All the siblings were farming the land.

△ Exterior view of the poorest house

After inspecting the house, Venerable Pomnyun asked

△ Venerable Pomnyun inspecting the interior of the house

“Could we also see the kitchen of a wealthier household?”

With the guidance of the Chokba, they visited a larger house nearby.

△ Exterior view of a wealthier house

△ Interior view of a wealthier house

The cooking tools and ingredients were neatly placed on the counters. There was a lot of useful information for the JTS team, who were researching kitchen improvements.

△ JTS team inspecting agricultural water facilities

After visiting the homes, the team conducted a field visit to assess how the water supply and agricultural water systems were being utilized. When they reached the water source, the facilities were well-maintained. However, during the busy farming season, the water supply became insufficient. The Bhutanese officials requested the installation of additional water sources below the current one, along with new piping to address the shortage.

△ Bhutanese government cabinet members and the JTS team discussing while inspecting the water supply facilities

After reaching the end of the pipe, the inspection of Komshar Chiwog was completed.

At noon, the group moved together to Phulavi Chiwog.

△ The landscape on the way to Phulavi Chiwog

After driving for an hour on the bumpy road, they arrived at the village. Located at an altitude of 1,600 meters, it was a highland village with 18 households. They met with the mostly elderly residents and asked them about their difficulties.

△ JTS team talking with the village residents

“Why do you live all the way up here at such a high altitude?”

“We have lived here for generations.”

“What is the hardest part of your life?”

The residents shared various difficulties.

△ Residents sharing their difficulties

“The wild animals ruin the crops. In the summer, landslides occur, damaging the roads. Because the roads are bad, we can’t go to sell our goods.”

“What do you mainly produce?”

“We mainly produce oranges, potatoes, and cardamom.”

△ The dialogue between Venerable Pomnyun and the village residents

“How much damage do the wild animals cause?

“There is a lot of damage from the wild animals, but we only chase them away without killing them.”

The health status was also checked. Two people had lost all their teeth, three people had poor vision, and one person had hearing difficulties. One elderly person with hearing loss had a hearing aid that the daughter, who lives in Paro, bought for her parent for $800.”

△ Venerable Pomnyun talking with the villagers

Finally, Venerable Pomnyun greeted the villagers.

“It’s nice to meet you all. Has anyone from abroad visited this village before?”

“Never.”

“Am I the first one to visit this village?” (laughs)

After finishing the visit to Phulavi Chiwog, it was 2 PM. They had been touring all day without having time for lunch.

△ View on the way to Rangdelbi Chiwog

After getting back in the truck, they drove for 1 hour and 30 minutes and returned to Rangdelbi Chiwog. When they arrived at their accommodations, the entire Chiwog was without electricity.

△ Accommodation with no electricity

When the power went out, everything, including the internet, stopped working. 

However, the students had gathered on the playground to meet Venerable Pomnyun. Originally, the plan was to visit the village first tomorrow and then the school, but the changed schedule hadn’t been communicated, so the children had already gathered. 

Venerable Pomnyun hurried to Rangdelbi Elementary School to meet the students and have a conversation with them.

△ Venerable Pomnyun and the JTS team conversing with the children

“Kuzu zangpo la! (Hello) I’m from Korea. If I were to buy you some playground equipment, what would you ask for?”

“We need a soccer ball.”

“What do you like after soccer?”

“I like volleyball and badminton.”

“If you have any questions for me, feel free to ask.”

△ Children raising their hands

△ A child asking a question

The children raised their hands and asked questions. 

“I want to know your name”

“It’s Pomnyun.”

After answering the various questions from the students, Venerable Pomnyun encouraged the children. 

“From now on, study hard to go to middle school, high school, and university. Just as I came from Korea to Bhutan, you too can go from Bhutan to Korea. So, study hard. Do you promise?”

“YES!”

△ Children with bright smiles

“Since you made a promise, I will give you a soccer ball, a volleyball, and a badminton set. But you must study hard. I will come back again next time.”

After finishing his conversation with the students, he took a tour around the school with the teachers. There are 6 teachers working at the school, 76 students studying, and 31 students living in the dormitory.

△ JTS team touring the school

When they entered the classroom, they saw the floor was in bad condition, with many parts broken. The stairs to the restroom were also damaged, so cement work seemed necessary. Venerable Pomnyun asked the teachers.

“What is most needed?”

“We really need cement. We need to repair the school floor, and if we have cement, the teachers will help with the repairs.”

At 5 PM, a meeting began with officials from the Bhutanese government. First, Venerable Pomnyun shared the results of the school visit and discussed what improvements could be made moving forward.

△ Venerable Pomnyun sharing his opinions

“Rangdelbi School’s floor is very damaged, so cement work is necessary. Since this is where the children study, it needs to be clean. This will have a positive educational impact. The teachers said that if they get the cement, they will do the repairs themselves, but if the teachers do the work, it might break again, so it seems that a professional should handle the repairs. Since the classroom floor is where the students study, it must be made very clean.”

Next, they discussed the issue of connecting the irrigation canals. Venerable Pomnyun emphasized the key points of the project that JTS aims to carry out.

“Repairing the existing canals made of concrete is something we can definitely do in cooperation with the village residents. However, burying a large pipe over a 3-kilometer stretch from the water source to the rice fields seems like a major project that should be handled by the government. What we want to do is improve the living conditions of the residents with a small budget for things that are absolutely necessary for them. These are the issues that are difficult to address through the usual budget and are often overlooked, and we want to focus on these areas. We are not replacing the government’s responsibilities.”

Linchen, from the Secretary’s Office of the Cabinet, also agreed.

△ Linchen from the Secretary’s Office of the Cabinet sharing his opinion

“That’s right. Currently, the Bhutanese government does not intervene in improving the residents’ living conditions, so the point you mentioned is important.” 

Venerable Pomnyun continued.

“If a small crack appears in the irrigation canal, it needs to be repaired right away, but such small repairs can’t be requested as a government project. We can only ask for support when the damage becomes severe. Therefore, we need to prevent the canals from being completely destroyed in the first place.”

They also discussed how to build a fence to prevent damage from wild animals.

“A fence is necessary, and it would be great if you could provide ideas on what kind of fence to build. In Korea, an effective method is using barbed wire. Instead of laying concrete at the bottom, if you bury the barbed wire in a circular shape, the animals won’t burrow under the fence.”

“Is it really effective?”

“Yes, it’s effective. So, let’s test various methods and expand on the best approach. The solution may vary depending on the terrain and the animals. But no matter how many fences we build, won’t monkeys still get through?”

“Monkeys come during the day, so people can chase them away. Wild boars, deer, and hedgehogs come at night, so fences are definitely needed.”

Continuing on, Venerable Pomnyun suggested ideas for improving the potato production facilities for the people of Pulabi village.

△ Venerable Pomnyun suggesting methods

“Why don’t we build a large warehouse for potatoes and adjust the timing of the harvest to increase profits?”

Everyone agreed with Venerable Pomnyun’s idea. He explained further.

“To adjust the harvest timing, we would need to have refrigerated storage, but that would be quite costly. Once potatoes go into refrigerated storage, sprouts begin to grow within three days. Considering the transport time, it’s not very effective. Since Pulabi Chiwog is located at a high altitude, it would be good to research a method of storing the potatoes naturally, without using electricity. In North Korea, potatoes are often stored in tunnels, which significantly lower the temperature. If we dig tunnels, we can achieve a similar effect. Ideally, we should store the potatoes in a natural, low-temperature environment. We need to research ways to store a large quantity of potatoes and delay the timing of the harvest.”

Finally, Venerable Pomnyun summarized the plan for improving the living conditions of the entire community of Bardo Gewok.

“This year, we will conduct a pilot project targeting all households in Bardo Gewok. Based on this, we will expand to include the entire Gemgang Dzongkhag.

As for improving the health of the residents, we will first conduct a survey of all the residents in Rangdelbi Chiwog. I will bring in doctors to check the eyes, ears, and teeth of the elderly. If we are unable to secure doctors, there may be a slight delay. It’s not easy for doctors to take time off for a week to come here.”

“Next, we will bring experts from various fields such as forestry, livestock, fruit farming, and agriculture to conduct surveys. Even with the same crops, the yield can vary depending on the type of seeds used and the method of planting. The most important thing is to help the residents earn a living through their own work. Otherwise, everyone will leave for the cities.”

By the time the meeting was concluded, Linchen from the Prime Minister’s Office shared the decision made by the Bhutanese government officials regarding whether the pilot project should be developed as an integrated project or through a distributed approach.

“We received feedback from various departments, including the governor, planning officials, and the Prime Minister’s office, and the best approach proposed by the Bhutanese government is the distributed development method. The reason is that if we use an integrated approach for one area, there is a higher chance of providing support for things that the residents do not need. Therefore, we have decided that a distributed approach, where each region is supported according to its needs, is better.”

Venerable Pomnyun agreed without hesitation.

“Okay! Good!”

While the meeting was taking place, the village residents came to visit. One lady brought some vegetables.”

△ A village resident who brought vegetables

△ Village residents waiting for the meeting to end

Several women also came together, bringing eggs, cheese, and milk that they had personally produced. They wanted to give them to Venerable Pomnyun and waited until the meeting was over.

△ The eggs, cheese, and milk brought by the village residents

△ Village residents talking with Venerable Pomnyun

After the meeting, Venerable Pomnyun met with the village residents.

“Thank you. Is there anything you would like to say?”

“We don’t know what to say. Thank you for visiting our village.”

“I will leave tomorrow, but the people who came with me will stay and live here for a month. Please take good care of them.”

After the residents left, they shared a meal together. Following the meal, the activists had a brief meeting about the upcoming schedule before wrapping up the day. It had been another long day.

*This text was written and edited based on an article provided by the Monk’s Day Team