The Third Bhutan Exploration – Day 4
Gemgang, Trongsa
April 25, 2024, marks the 4th day of the field trip in Bhutan with the experts from Korea.
The JTS team spent the night at a resident’s house in the Komshar, unpacking their belongings and resting. Due to a power outage, they had to rely on candles for the entire night, using them to eat, work, and even wash up. Since they couldn’t charge their phones, everyone’s devices were dead.
“Looks like we’re living primitively for now,” they joked with a laugh.
The experts from Korea also found it to be a memorable experience, starting their day with smiles. After cooking breakfast under the dim light of the candles, they took a commemorative photo with the family who had kindly lent them the house.
After expressing their gratitude to the homeowner with a gift, the team departed from Komshar Chiwog at 6 a.m. to continue their journey.
After driving for 5 hours through the unpaved roads, which were damaged in several places due to landslides, the team arrived at Gemgang Dzongkhag. The deputy governor of Gemgang Dzongkhag warmly welcomed the team. The governor was in Thimphu for an engagement, so the deputy governor had graciously stepped in to greet them.
The team visited Trong Heritage Village, a UNESCO World Heritage site, specially arranged for the experts from Korea.
The cultural heritage officer from Gemgang provided an in-depth explanation about the village. Situated on a small hill overlooking Gemgang Dzongkhag, the village consists of 27 traditional stone and brick houses lined up along narrow alleys. The village is believed to have been established around the 16th century, with the oldest house being about 500 years old.
Though there were recent additions such as streetlights, drainage systems, and cement walls, the aesthetic characteristics and originality of the traditional structures were still relatively well preserved.
After taking a walk around the village, Venerable Pomnyun offered a few pieces of advice.
“The newly built concrete sections must be removed if the purpose of developing this village is to preserve its traditional culture.”
The team stepped into what is said to be the oldest house in the village, a 500-year-old structure. The wooden staircase leading from the second to the third floor, along with the creaky handrail, truly seemed to bear the weight of five centuries.
The interior of the house should also be restored in a way that reflects how it looked when people lived here in the past. Old farming tools should be restored and displayed as they were used.”
There were plans to build a café within the village, but Venerable Pomnyun advised that constructing new buildings within the village itself would not be ideal. It would be more appropriate to build them on the upper or lower outskirts of the village. The government officials in Gemgang agreed with this suggestion.
“Yes, that would be better.”
After leaving the heritage village, the group headed to the main office of Gemgang.
As everyone settled into their seats in the meeting room, Venerable Pomnyun asked the Deputy Governor of Gemgang to begin with a greeting.
“It would be great if you could lead the session.”
“Then I will serve as the acting governor for just one hour” (laugh)
After a brief round of introductions, Venerable Pomnyun outlined the agenda for the meeting.
“Today’s discussion will focus on two main topics. First, we need to finalize and confirm the projects to be undertaken this year. We aim to use this year as a trial, and based on the results, we will plan for the next five years starting next year. Second, we have experts in agriculture, forestry, and water management, so we will take time for a Q&A and discussion among us.”
The experts from Korea began by sharing their impressions of their visit to Bhutan. Afterward, the government officials from Gemgang had the opportunity to ask questions. A variety of inquiries were raised.
One of them asked for advice on how to solve the issue, noting that the poverty rate in Gemgang was 25% five years ago, but has increased to 41% now. Venerable Pomnyun responded.
The poverty rate has increased compared to five years ago. What should we do about it?
“Although the poverty rate on paper has risen, the actual living standards of the residents may not have worsened. As Bhutan’s economy has grown overall, an imbalance in development between urban areas like Paro and Thimphu and rural areas may have emerged. This has led to an increase in the poverty rate measurement criteria. Rural areas like Gemgang haven’t developed much in the past five years, and with the higher standards, it is natural that the poverty rate would appear relatively higher. Therefore, while it may be difficult to reduce the poverty rate, we can strive to ensure it does not increase further in the next five years. The growth rate in places like Paro and Thimphu is higher than here, so there is no need to worry too much.”
What is more important than the poverty rate?
The core of our work is not simply to reduce the poverty rate. First, the key is to improve the quality of life for the residents. This means building homes for those who have no houses and helping someone with a monthly income of 1,000 Ngultrum to earn 1,500. As government officials, reducing the poverty rate may be important to you, but for the residents, what matters most is how much their actual lives have improved.
JTS focuses on improving the lives of the bottom 20%, so it may not contribute significantly to reducing the poverty rate itself. However, we can certainly make a difference in improving the quality of life for the residents. By providing homes for those without houses and improving the living conditions of those in poor environments, we can enhance their daily lives. As a result, even if their economic status is below Bhutan’s average, the actual income disparity will decrease.
Second, even if their economic situation is difficult, what matters is how much happier their lives have become as they improve. The criterion for evaluation is not economic income, but happiness index. There are many poorer countries in the world, but Bhutan has particularly drawn attention because of its happiness index. I specifically chose to focus on Gemgang because it has the highest poverty rate. Of course, we need to make sure that the poverty rate does not exceed 40%. If the poverty rate rises further, it could give the impression that the local government is not doing its job properly.”
Next, a lot of discussions took place regarding agricultural methods. Agricultural expert Mr. Joo Hyung-ro offered many suggestions, including how to make seedbeds, how to transplant rice, alternatives to using chemical fertilizers, and how to manage irrigation systems. There were numerous specific proposals.
After listening carefully to the discussions, Venerable Pomnyun summarized and shared his thoughts on improvements to agricultural methods.
How can farming methods be improved?
“First, we need to adjust the timing and method of growing rice seedlings. By starting earlier and planting them in straight rows, the seedlings can receive sunlight evenly and benefit from better ventilation. This results in more rice stalks with abundant grains, while also reducing the workload and making farming easier.
Second, in Korea, chemical fertilizers are used in paddy fields, but since they are not used here, other organic fertilizers should be employed. Manure from cows, chickens, or even humans can be composted and utilized, but I was told that those aren’t used here either. That’s why we proposed cultivating green manure crops as a substitute for fertilizer.”
“Third, irrigation channels need improvement. Facilities should be reinforced to ensure water is distributed effectively to the fields. From our observations, while the main channels from the water source to the farmlands are in relatively good condition, the distribution system within the fields is poorly maintained and deteriorates each year. This has resulted in significant water leakage at the final stage, where water is supposed to flow evenly across all fields.
Since this issue ties directly to individual farmers’ access to water for their fields, it would be effective to provide cement to each farmer so they can repair their sections of the irrigation channels. Additionally, the farm paths alongside these channels should be slightly widened.
Fourth, it’s advisable to keep some water in the fields even during winter to maintain soil moisture. This way, less water will be needed for transplanting rice seedlings. The current practice of leaving fields completely dry in winter and then flooding them all at once during transplanting causes water shortages.”
Even with traditional farming methods, small improvements like these can increase income. The residents often request machinery or for irrigation channels to be built with pipes. However, such methods tend to be expensive and don’t necessarily help address the core issues. Of course, machines are convenient, but while they require a significant investment, they are often used only briefly and left unused for longer periods. In Korea, mechanization helped in some ways, but it also led to farmers accumulating debt. Therefore, we need to plan and implement changes more carefully and thoughtfully.
I understand that it can be difficult for the residents to suddenly switch from traditional farming methods due to their concerns and uncertainties. Therefore, we should select model farms in each area that adopt new farming methods, allowing the residents to observe the income and workload of these farms throughout the year. After one year, if the residents agree that the new farming method is better, then it should be adopted. The farms participating in the model should be guaranteed a certain level of income. For example, if a farm traditionally harvested 1,200 kg per acre, even if the new method yields less than that, they should still be guaranteed 1,200 kg.
After discussing various topics such as forestry policies, damage to crops from wildlife, and role-sharing in pilot projects, the roles were finally clarified. The Gewog and Chiwog areas would be responsible for the agricultural irrigation systems and improvements to the living environment that benefit individuals, while the Dzongkhag area would take on public infrastructure tasks such as road repairs and school renovations. JTS would provide the necessary materials for the projects.
As the discussion came to a close, the Deputy Governor of Gemgang raised a concern. He mentioned that no matter how much production increases, there is one issue that seems difficult to solve and asked for advice. Venerable Pomnyun then shared his insights on the development direction of Gemgang.
The farmer in the remote area faces difficulties in selling their produce.
“The poverty rate in Gemgang is 41.4%, the highest in the country. I have only been here for six months, so I may not know everything, but in my opinion, the biggest factor is the lack of market access. I am from Sarpang in the south, where it was easy to sell products in large cities like Thimphu. But in Gemgang, farmers are struggling to sell their produce because it’s so remote. For example, if vegetables or fruits from Baldo Gewok are transported to Gelephu, 90% of it spoils. Improving market access seems to be the most important issue. Do you have any solutions to this problem?”
“That’s a good point. I have also been thinking about market access. As you mentioned, it’s one of the main reasons for Gemgang’s poverty and high poverty rate.
However, I believe there is hope for Gemgang in the future, for two reasons. First, Gemgang is located near the Indian border. India’s economy is growing rapidly, and as the number of wealthy individuals increases, there will be a greater demand for food grown on unpolluted land, with a focus on health. Since Gemgang is close to the border, it can explore opportunities to open up markets there.”
“Second, there is the development of Gelephu Mindfulness City. If this new city is successfully developed, it could serve as a market for Gemgang’s products. While Sarpang, being closer to Gelephu, will benefit the most, Sarpang alone won’t be able to meet all the demand. Gelephu is a bit farther from Gemgang, but it is much closer than Thimphu, so the development of Gelephu will eventually expand Gemgang’s consumer market in the long run.
“Using refrigerated trucks to transport agricultural products fresh or adjusting the shipment schedule of crops are also viable options. For example, with potatoes, the harvest in Gemgang, being at a higher altitude than the southern regions, happens about a month later. By coordinating such schedules and creating a sales plan, new opportunities can emerge.
Another approach is to establish a joint sales strategy. Take oranges, for instance; they are currently sold to Indian traders at very low prices. By implementing a cooperative sales approach, the selling price can be raised. The same can be applied to cardamom. Let’s continue to discuss and explore these strategies together in the future.”
If you turn the most disadvantageous situation around, it becomes the most advantageous.
“The most disadvantageous situation, when flipped, can become the most advantageous. For example, when climbing a mountain and realizing you’ve taken the wrong path, the person at the very back has the advantage of turning around first. Similarly, undeveloped areas have often been labeled as underdeveloped, creating the perception of being left behind. However, in today’s global climate crisis, the narrative shifts. Undeveloped regions actually hold a distinct advantage. Places like Gemgang or Bhutan, where the environment is well-preserved, are now in a favorable position.”
“If you keep trying to follow developed countries, you will always find yourselves struggling to catch up. Instead, if you shift your perspective from trying to develop to recognizing that ‘the current global direction is flawed, and we need to turn back,’ Jemgang could lead the way. We need to research what that path looks like. Bhutan’s concept of Gross National Happiness (GNH) was one of the first attempts at this kind of thinking. However, while it was innovative, it seems that it hasn’t been upgraded or further developed and has almost disappeared. Let’s work together to evolve GNH and create an even newer and more advanced concept.
It’s getting late. Let’s wrap up for today and continue our discussion next time. I’ve visited many villages in Bhutan, and I’ve gotten a general sense of how the people live. Now, rather than visiting villages, I think I should have more conversations with you. Thank you.”
Although the group wanted to continue the conversation, time was limited, so they concluded the meeting for the time being.
Afterward, they shared a meal together, which had been prepared by Gemgang Dzongkhag, continuing their conversation over the meal. Once they finished eating, Venerable Pomnyun presented the Deputy Governor with a pair of socks and an umbrella as a gift.
“If you’re going to develop the village, you need to wear these socks and keep moving diligently. Even if it rains during the monsoon season, you can’t rest. You must keep going with this umbrella.” (laughter)
After giving a gift from Korea to each of the other government officials, they left Gemgang Dzongkhag and took a group photo together to commemorate the moment.
Mr. Joo Hyeong-ro gave the government officials of Gemgang pruning shears as a gift.
“Respect for the sky, love for the earth! This is the spirit of eco-friendly organic farming. Keep it in mind!” (laughter)
With the next meeting in mind, the team departed from Gemgang and headed towards Trongsa. After three hours of winding through mountain roads, they arrived at 5 PM. When Venerable Pomnyun got out of the car, the Trongsa governor warmly welcomed the team.
After exchanging greetings, the Trongsa governor began explaining the Trongsa Dzongkhag that stood ahead of the team.
“There is a room inside the Dzong that houses 35 Buddha statues. The left side is for administrative purposes, and the right side is for religious ceremonies. Since the Bhutanese royal family began here, the crown prince is required to stay here for a period before officially becoming the heir.”
After taking a commemorative photo with the Trongsa Dzong in the background, they moved to a different location for the meeting.
Since they had to travel to Punakha overnight, they decided to skip dinner and started the meeting right away. First, they introduced the experts from Korea, followed by introductions of the public officials from the Trongsa Dzong.
After hearing the impressions of the experts from Korea who had toured Bhutan, the public officials from Trongsa Dzong freely asked questions. The topics included concerns about whether Bhutan’s GNH policy was weakening, how forest policies were being implemented, whether 100% organic farming was truly possible, and how agricultural productivity could be increased. A wide range of questions and discussions took place.
The Governor of Trongsa sought advice from Venerable Pomnyun on how to view the situation where Bhutanese youth are continuing to leave for foreign countries. Venerable Pomnyun suggested that it would be beneficial for Bhutan’s GNH (Gross National Happiness) concept to be upgraded to the next level and provided detailed guidance on the direction it should take.
How should we address the issue of youth leaving the country?
“I would like to ask about GNH (Gross National Happiness). We have made significant improvements in non-economic factors such as healthcare, education, and clean air. However, in terms of economic development, we are still lacking. Despite the fact that our youth receive excellent education, the slow pace of the country’s economic development leads to a shortage of jobs, resulting in young people seeking opportunities abroad. In the long run, there will come a time when the pace of economic development aligns with job creation, but for now, the slow pace is causing people to become impatient. I would appreciate your advice on this matter.”
“The situation of Bhutanese youth leaving to find work abroad is similar to that of young people in Korea who, after graduating from university, do not seek employment and stay in their rooms. (laughs) It’s simply the difference between a country in the early stages of economic growth and one that has already reached a certain level of economic development. Ultimately, during the development phase, people leave their hometowns and move to cities, and after development, many become unable to be independent and end up staying in their rooms.”
In rural Korea, the youngest person is about 65 years old. In ten years, there might not be anyone left to farm. Even now, most of the workers in the rural areas are foreign laborers. In the future, the countryside may be inhabited only by foreigners. Already, the majority of customers in rural food stores are foreigners.
Although Korea is considered prosperous, if the reality of life for its people is like this, what does it really mean for the country to be prosperous? In Bhutan, children are educated, but if they ultimately leave the countryside and go abroad, what does that education really mean? A person might earn money abroad to build a house for their parents in the countryside, but if those parents live their entire lives without seeing their children again, can that really be called happiness?
The introduction of the GNH concept by Bhutan’s fourth king was revolutionary. However, in the early stages of its implementation, while it had a significant influence on many countries, there was a lack of ongoing management, attention, and development. When poor people receive material support, their immediate living conditions may improve. But if they fail to develop the ability to live independently, they eventually become no different from pets or livestock. Just as animals need to roam in the wild and find their own food to truly live as animals, people too must be able to live by their own efforts in order to experience vitality and have shining eyes. On the surface, living well materially holds little significance. It’s not just about building new houses or paving new roads. When people build their own homes, pave their own roads, cultivate their gardens, and farm, it is in these activities that true vitality is fostered.
So, what JTS aims to do this year is not just provide material things. The goal is to breathe life into people, helping them become self-sufficient. That’s why it’s important to identify what residents can already do on their own and where they are lacking, so that we can support them in those areas. We need to figure out how we can play a role similar to providing fertilizer for plants, helping them grow and thrive.
The reason JTS involves the community in this process is not to make them suffer, but because it is important for them to accomplish what they need on their own. The meaning of life and happiness deepen and grow when we carve out our own paths and help others. This is why I value the concept of GNH and want to further develop it.
Of course, you might be listening to me and thinking, “The monk comes from prosperous Korea, so that’s why he’s saying such things. We, too, would like to live well economically first.” I understand. But what I hope is that Bhutan does not repeat the same mistakes that Korea has gone through.
Next, the Trongsa Governor asked the monk how he viewed the issue of people living in water-rich Bhutan still complaining about water shortages. The monk shared insights on water management strategies that could serve as alternatives in the era of climate crisis.
How should the issue of water shortages in farmland and households be addressed?
“Bhutan is not lacking in water, but there are reports of water shortages in farmland and households. What do you think is the problem?”
“Our ancestors used to build new canals when water was scarce, so why don’t the descendants maintain the existing ones? (laughs)”
The water shortage issue began when villages were originally established near small springs, and as the population grew, water consumption increased. In the future, with the spread of washing machines, flush toilets, and shower facilities, water will become critically scarce. While we need to increase the water supply, an increase in water usage will also lead to more wastewater. Since there are no wastewater treatment facilities, this could result in contamination of the soil and rivers. Therefore, measures to address these issues must be put in place from now.
In my opinion, we need to reduce water consumption. However, it will be difficult to prevent the increase in water usage. So, we must start by increasing the water supply and ensure that each household can treat its own wastewater. As the village grows, wastewater should be collected and treated. Currently, people in Bhutan drink from streams, but in the future, like in Korea, they may have no choice but to buy bottled water.
“When villagers complain about water shortages and request new water sources, a site visit often reveals issues such as faucets not being properly turned off, allowing water to continuously flow out. While water scarcity is a concern, proper water management must come first. Although water is abundant in Bhutan, it’s crucial to recognize that water is an extremely valuable resource. In the future, during the era of climate crisis, water will become the most critical resource.
The total volume of water is important, but securing clean water is even more vital. In Korea, even when testing the water quality of streams for use in organic farming, most fail the inspection. Water must be purified before use because the water itself is contaminated. Even so-called natural water often does not meet safety standards. In 10 years, regions like Paro and Thimphu may face water and air pollution, driving tourists to other locations.”
Finally, after discussing the damage to crops caused by wild animals, the meeting concluded. Venerable Pomnyun then distributed gifts, each one brought from Korea, to the public officials at the Trongsa Dzongkhag.
They promised to continue their conversation another time and quickly got into the car. Departing from the Trongsa Dzongkhag at 7 p.m., they drove along the dark mountain roads.
They climbed and descended the mountain to pass through the 3,400-meter point, then climbed and descended again to pass through the 3,100-meter point.
After driving along the mountain road for 3 hours and 30 minutes, they arrived in Punakha at 10:30 p.m. They unpacked at the accommodation and concluded the day’s field visit.
Tomorrow, the plan is to visit the Punakha Dzong in the morning, then travel to Thimphu. In the afternoon, they will have a meeting with officials from the central government of Bhutan and sign an MOU for a sustainable development project between JTS and the Bhutanese government.
*This text was written and edited based on an article provided by the Monk’s Day Team
